
My Christmas came one day earlier than last year, having begun on December the 25th, Japan time. It had been a near thing, making it to Christmas alive. After two weeks of arduous classes and presentation preparation combined with a cold, I passed through my final class on Friday morning and was catapulted into my first break at Ritsumeikan University. I would like to complain about having given a presentation on Christmas day, but by any consideration it wouldn’t be right. As you all (should) know, I’m not a Christian, and the day holds no spiritual importance to me, despite having received it off for every year of my life prior to now. As I’m sure my parents will happily tell you, I even had a lot of trouble remembering what day of the year Christmas fell on all the way through high school, when I missed a bonus question at the end of a math test.
So why choose Christmas to write a journal entry about? Well, that’s the thing. Christmas in Japan is different. And I don’t just mean that it comes sooner than in the States. Ever since ancient times, the Japanese have been masters of dismantling religions and taking what makes them feel good. The natural result is that most of the population has no religion that they truly identify with, and as such, are free to enjoy a large number of religious observances. Skipping over how beautiful I think this adaptive practice is, having erased almost all tension from the subject of religion, I’ll go ahead and give a quick explanation of the Japanese Christmas.
As a number of you may know, while there’s still a Santa-san, street-corner sightings of figures dressed in red and white, Christmas trees, and houses and businesses decorated (rather queerly) with Christmas lights, the holiday has nothing to do with Jesus or Christians. The meaning behind Christmas seems to even be unknown to a large number of the Japanese, as I found out first hand when I tried to explain that I don’t celebrate Christmas in the U.S.. Christmas is a general holiday in Japan. The gift giving tradition is dubious, and, unlike in America where most people would categorize Christmas as a “family holiday,” Christmas in Japan is more of a lover’s/ friend’s holiday. So when Christmas comes around, the doves pair up and go eat cake, the most traditional of which is the Christmas season Strawberry Short Cake.
I myself, then, having both been in Japan, and currently in league with a Japanese girl, was of course set to do the same thing. So, when classes were done for the day and the sun had finished slipping behind the verge of the mountains that cradle Kyoto, Ayako and I headed down town towards Shijo and Teramachi for dinner and desert.

said partner in crime
When it came time to answer our holiday sweet-tooth’s call to arms, I was rather surprised. I found that Ayako had guided me through the cold Kyoto night, past the T-shirt vendors and odd shops of
Teramachi to a Lipton Cafe. Despite all the Americans that seem to like it well enough, I’m fairly convinced that Lipton is a cheap tea company, and I was a little doubtful as to the quality of the confectionery treats that could be found there. Of course, as I’ve heard since the event, Lipton seems to do a pretty snazzy job in Europe, and the Lipton Cafe in
Teramachi is also a nice place, with some truly appetizing pastries and cakes of a respectable variety. Including, of course, a number of strawberry themed dishes.
Now, breaking off briefly from the narration that I’ve just begun, I need to point out that I’m amazed by the winter presence of fresh strawberries in Japan. Thinking back on it all now, I’m unsure whether or not you can get good strawberries in the US in the heart of winter. Of course, at the time, I was fairly sure that such a thing had never happened, and marveled at the ubiquitous presence of the red morsels. My only guess is that they come from Australia, which seems to have a summery Christmas. In any case, the Japanese, always wonderfully seasonal in their selection of foods, have made a strawberry season out of the first stretch of true winter. Wonderful special products such as chocolate bars made of 70% strawberry, and
ichigo (strawberry) infused beverages can be found most places you go.
Meiji’s chocolate bar idea was a little too much to resist, and I bought one to see what it was like. The color (of both the label and the chocolate) was fairly remarkable, and the flavor was also pretty enjoyable. The chocolate bar could perhaps be most accurately described as having tasted distinctly like frozen strawberries with a chocolate aftertaste. Since there were seeds included, I found the texture to also be especially enjoyable.

70% Strawberry.
But getting back to my narration, we entered the Lipton Cafe and were guided to seating on the second floor. The manila-colored room was packed with noisy customers, and warmed up by thick cream-colored lighting. Over the bustle, we could hear waitresses at nearby tables apologizing for sold out items. Looking over the menu, we mentally crossed off what we knew wasn’t around, and gazed at what they still had left to offer. We both liked the look of a slice of Japanese sweet-potato and apple pie, a slice of chocolate cake, and a gorgeous strawberry tart, red and shiny above a moderate crust. There were a few other choices, but rather than merely splitting one or two, I suggested we get those three so we could get a good balance of flavors: a fresh strawberry tart, a slice of rich chocolate cake, and a cut of a sweet Imo+Ringo pie.
We caught the attention of a waitress as she departed from the table next to us, and put in our order. Of course, as could have been predicted by both the talk of sold out items and the fact that strawberries were “in season,” the waitress returned shortly to report that the strawberry tart was sold out. Ayako looked towards me and offered up “Well, we don’t really need three deserts anyway, right?”
“I suppose not. . . but what about replacing it with something like this strawberry waffle, or a strawberry shortcake?”
I guess the restaurant was pretty loud, and the second half of my statement was pretty halfhearted. I’d be willing to assume that it came out in a bit of a mumble, perhaps even with incomplete or awkward grammar. So, having caught the first part, Ayako gave the waitress the go-ahead, who then departed rapidly into the clamor of the thin aisle that stretched off beyond my left shoulder and away. And it was about this time that another waitress brought the same strawberry tart to the table next to us. I felt a hole open up inside.
At first I wasn’t sure how I should react to my sudden sorrow. As I stared down at the dark grain of the table, glossy under the cream light coming from the ceiling above, I felt as though it wouldn’t have been too much to say I was on the verge of tears.
Now granted, it had been a pretty hard couple of weeks, and I had been sleep deprived for a very long time. The emotion was probably not merited, but the despair swallowed me up, and showed clearly in my face.
After declining to explain myself to Ayako a few times, I finally sheepishly admitted that I wanted to eat strawberries. I really wanted to eat strawberries. After all, this was my Christmas in Japan. Or so I weakly reasoned at the time.
We got a hold of another menu, and looked through the ravaged list of strawberry dishes, mostly rent crust and seed from the Lipton Cafe’s kitchen. But there were few that seemed to be left. We called a waitress again, and inquired: “Is this already sold out?”
“Yes, I’m sorry.”
“Well, then, what about these two?”
The issue was set to rest when we ordered a waffle dish with some chocolate mousse and some strawberries sliced up over the top.
The first two deserts came, and I believe we enjoyed them fully. Both were well done, and pleasantly different from each other. When the waffle dish arrived, we were both feeling pretty full, and again I felt a little sheepish.
But when I began to eat, and got my first taste of strawberry, it felt like sunshine. And then I realized that despite Ayako sitting across from me in the cream-colored light of the Lipton Cafe, and the cold Kyoto air washing through the busy downtown stretch that abutted the entrance to Teramachi, I was laying on the grass in Georgia, picking and eating strawberries with my mother under the summer sun.
When we were finished eating our christmas deserts, Ayako and I left Teramachi, and caught a bus back home towards Hakubaicho. With Christmas done, pretty soon it would be new year. And winter was deepening in Kyoto.
Posted in Uncategorized